Capers

I love capers. I suppose they could be considered a love/hate ingredient. People either love 'em or hate 'em, kinda like tarragon or cauliflower. I happen to Love 'em with a capital L. What is a caper, exactly, you wonder? Well, let me enlighten you regarding these tasty green pearls that pack a big ol' punch of salty flavor.

A caper is the immature flower bud of a low growing vine found in the Middle East and Mediterranean regions of the world. Fresh caper blossoms are not especially flavorful, but after sun-drying and brining in vinegar, or curing in salt their sharpness increases dramatically.

If the buds are not picked to become pickled capers, they turn into caper berries, which bear some resemblance to olives. Caper berries are not used in the same way as capers in recipes - they are more likely to be eaten alone, as a snack. Most recipes call for the small caper buds, not the larger and less salty caper berries.

Capers are categorized and sold by their size, with the smallest size being the most desirable and hence, more expensive: nonpareil (0-7 mm), surfines (7-8 mm), capucines (8-9 mm), capotes (9-11 mm), fines (11-13 mm), and grusas (14+ mm).

I prefer the smallest variety possible, the nonpareils, which are grown in the South of France. I buy capers at the international market, not in the conventional grocery store. The jars you get at a regular grocery store are tiny - only an ounce or two and quite expensive. At the international market I can get a 16 ounce jar of capers pickled in brine for about four dollars. You might be wondering which international market, but I'm saving that for another blog post about where I shop in the Metroplex (stay tuned!).

The nonpareils have a delicate texture and more pronounced taste than the larger varieties. Capers are a perfect substitute for anchovies - they impart the same saltiness and a similar "fishiness". I use capers in my vegan Caesar salad dressing in place of anchovies and it works beautifully. Another dish I like to make with good, quality capers is Pasta Puttanesca.

We had William and Judith over last weekend for cocktails and hors d'oeuvre's and one item on the buffet was grilled asparagus and carrots served with a creamy caper dressing. I grilled the vegetables early in the day and then chilled them in the ice box. Note: Robert said I should mention that I refer to the refrigerator as the ice box! I guess that's a part of my Southern upbringing because that is what it was called when I was growing up.

The dressing was super simple, but it was a big hit. I'm going to share the recipe with you, so you can try it yourself. Make sure you serve it well chilled. It is good as a dip or dressing with any grilled or raw vegetable, but it is particularly well paired with asparagus and carrots. I have a little left over from the gathering, so I plan on steaming a couple of artichokes this weekend. I'll stuff them with fresh herb couscous and will use the caper sauce as a dipping sauce for them, instead of butter. Along with a fresh picked salad straight from our garden, they'll make a light and delicious dinner.

Super Simple, Yet Very Delicious, Creamy Caper Dressing

1 cup vegan mayonaise (I used Veganaise)
1 cup vegan sour cream (I used Tofutti Sour Supreme)
1/2 cup capers (do not rinse)
6 Tablespoons fresh dill (must be fresh, don't substitute dried)
Fresh cracked pepper to taste (coarsely cracked)
2 teaspoons lemon juice

Put everything in a food processor except the pepper and twirl until combined. Season to taste with the coarsely cracked pepper.

Chef's Note: You can add even more capers if you really love them like I do and want even more pronounced caper taste. Or, you can add some of the brining liquid to impart more flavor. Just be careful to not add too much brine because you can thin the dressing out too much.

Chill and enjoy over your favorite grilled or raw veggies.